January 1, 2009

West Desert - New Years Eve

Contemplating what to do for New Years Eve we headed for the West Desert. A loop trip that ended up being nearly 300 miles of dirt roads. The Pony Express trail around the south end of the Great Salt Lake, through Wendover, north along the Pilot Mtns. then east along the historic Transcontinental Railroad line, back to Ogden. I only got in a few pictures then realized that I didn't bring spare batteries. We camped out on the north end of the Fish Springs Mountains where there was plenty of ground with no snow cover. The views are what the West Desert is all about! The sunset and sunrise were no exceptions. What a way to ring in the new year.

 


Before heading out I checked on the weather (i.e. how much snow was on the ground) using the remote sensor stations that NOAA has scattered across the country. The accuracy of the remote sensors was spot on for the most part. Simpson Springs Pony Express Station.

 

 Trevor heading out across the yawning expanse.

 

December 18, 2008

June 1, 2008

Airborne - Ranger - Infantry

Disclaimer: Some may find the below written disturbing.
Italics indicate lyrics of a cadence we used to sing while running in the morning. The rest is just my not-so-humble-opinion.


big bird, big bird, in the sky
all will jump some will die

will my number be the one that comes up
I'll thank God if I only throw up

paratrooper-paratrooper how'd you get down
T10 charlie big and round

fight for the troops says the pin on your lapel
from the cloak of an ivory cell

will you rise when no one else will
put some fucker in your sights, send 'em to hell?

airborne-ranger how'd you get back
100 pound rucksack on my back

have yourself a go, go ahead sign up
put your money where your mouth is - will your number come up

see real quick what your all about
when your political bullshit is covered in doubt

airborne-ranger, where've you been
'round the world and back again

a nine-tailed cat, on tail number ten
but it's seventeen grand to do it again

paratrooper - ranger who are we?
death from above; infantry

badassed we are, but maybe not,
at the 20 year twilight of the clock

power of pride is easy as pie
easy as a sticker on your ride

home isn’t right, it’s a pain in the ass
all people worry about is the price of gas

map-of-the-earth charlie-one-forty-one
puked in a bag, but it don't help none

scared pretty bad, if my mind goes there
just one step into thin air

big-bird, big-bird in the sky
all will jump, some will die

May 26, 2008

Origin of Fretwater


Fretwater Falls

Fretwater is the name of a rapid in Desolation Canyon, named by explorer John Wesley Powell in 1869 after his expedition wrecked a boat there. Powell travelled nearly 1000 miles down an uncharted river naming things as he went. Fretwater is one of my favorite John Wesley Powell place names. It's also a good one word description of the events in 2008 that led me to start this collection.

May 25, 2008

The Chemo Chair

I wrote this during an 8 hour day in the chemo chair. That day was just another day in the treatment regimen that followed a stage 4 cancer diagnosis about 8 months prior. It reflects a bit of the bitterness I feel toward the government and their lack of respect for returned veterans. This piece is a little bit metaphorical and could be perceived as being a little dark so if your not in the mood, don't read it.......anyway consider yourself forewarned. Here's what the chemo chair looks like.
 
 

The Chemo Chair 1-23-09 
 
chemo chair….day who knows  
a rats poison, so it don’t grow
bones on fire 
lightning from toes
zofran for breakfast  
so it don’t go
hiccups four hours 
midst of night
couch for a week 
then I’ll take flight
 
ipod an island in another time 
determination is my mind
“mind over matter” is what they say
 the pep and the hype an easy delay
of the fear and rage, eventually seen through 
easy to say, hard to do
memories of then, and yet to come?  
scraggly ol' hair doo, long since done

supercuts on Thursday one-fifteen 
been a long time...twenty years it seems?
...since the Army? nineteen eighty-eight. 
VA says we won’t bear the weight

two bronze stars a couple pounds more
who’d have known there’d always be war

who's gonna tell some kid….hardly eighteen
the recruiter......in his army greens?
not hardly, as I recall 
certainly the ghost of the VA halls

midst of night, a terrible fight 
thousand pound bombs of the Navy long
into Iraq they go
twenty years ago

 from Iraq I’ve come
body numb
twenty years it takes
to acknowledge the weight
acknowledge I do
through the national news
pissed I become
until I’m dumb
descend I do 
to the crater blew
ascend I will
from the bombs sweet swill
body is bum
mind must run
to water blue.... 
easy to say, hard to do

October 31, 2007

Desolate Solitude

After dinner we pass through a region of the wildest desolation. The canyon is very tortuous, the river very rapid, and many lateral canyons enter on either side…piles of broken rock lie against these walls; crags and tower shaped peaks are seen everywhere, and away above them, long lines of broken cliffs; and above and beyond the cliffs are pine forests, of which we obtain occasional glimpses as we look up through a vista of rocks. The walls are almost without vegetation; a few dwarf bushes are seen here and there clinging to the rocks, and cedars grow from the crevices - not like the cedars of a land refreshed with rains…but ugly clumps, like war clubs beset with spines.  
We are minded to call this the Canyon of Desolation.  
          -John Wesley Powell, 7-8-1869

 

March 28, 2007

Dirty Devil River

Following is a post I made to Utahrafters after a trip that Anja and I made in inflatable kayaks. This picture shows the silt banks in the Dirty Devil Arm, from when Lake Powell was at full pool.

Entering the old Lake Powell silt banks ( ~100cfs)

February 23, 2007

Grand Canyon

In the early spring of 2006 my friend Todd (pic'd below) came to Ogden for a couple days of backcountry skiing. He invited me to be part of a private group doing a 27 day river trip through the Grand Canyon the following Feb./Mar. I of course accepted without even thinking about it.

 

August 26, 2006

Lighthouse School River Clean-Up

This chapter is a culmination of several whitewater river clean up trips done with Steve May and the Lighthouse School in Price, Ut. We worked 84 miles of the Green River through Desolation Canyon, camping for 7 days on each trip to accomplish the goals. Like the name implies it's a very remote location in eastern Utah. Walking out if somebody gets pissed is a sure way to perish.

July 1, 2006

The Strawberry Roan




The boat launch area for Desolation Canyon of the Green River can be a busy place in the middle of June. I quickly rigged the 13' Maravia Spider for a solo patrol and floated away from Sandwash boatramp around 5pm. I wanted to get a start where I'd be between the groups from the morning of my launch day, and the launches of the next morning I thought I knew the flat water section of the river well enough to float past dark. 

My plan was to float for several hours past dark to a place where I knew there was a river bank big enough for my paco pad, where I'd sleep. The stillness of evening quietly took the remainder of the day while I got into the cooler and found a dinner of carrots, red peppers, and blue cheese. I leaned against a duffel bag, and my temporary world of solitude couldn't have been better.
After dark I rowed for a couple more hours, arriving at the riverside bench I had in mind. I turned on my headlamp, gave it a quick scout for cacti, and decided it was a suitable sleeping spot. I unrolled my paco pad and lay down, miles from another person. I gazed at the stars, and listened to the gentleness of Tabyago riffle. It was near midnight, the rigging day was long, and sleep came quick.

During the night I woke to the sound of horses hooves approaching on the trail from downstream. I sat up on my paco pad trying to hurry and wake up. I knew immediately that it was a solitary wild mustang stallion that I'd seen before, at a distance, in this area. The first thing I could think of to avoid being trampled was to turn my headlamp on him and give a couple crazy yells simultaneously. To my surprise, he turned and took off running. I thought to myself "that was easy", and lay back down to sleep. Sometime later the identical process took place. This time when I turned on my headlamp he did nothing. I shut it off, and stood up on my paco. The horse also stood still. For several minutes the old Strawberry Roan and I had a Mexican standoff in the wee hours of the morning there on the banks of the wild Green River. Finally, the horse moved toward me several steps. I threw my paco on the boat, untied it, and stood holding the bowline, captivated by the scene. I didn't know much about horses, but I knew I wanted to be ready to go real quick. By now we only had about 50 feet of star light between us. I could hear him breathe in the milky light of a waning moon as I watched him wag his massive head from side to side, and paw at the dusty trail. His coat was filthy with dried mud and dung. His eyes and tangled mane were as wild as his heritage. He was a massive animal, and greatly intimidated me. I knew I needed to go, but I was completely fascinated. He was the epitome of everything wild, unbridled for generations. I wanted to approach even closer. I asked him if he was really going to run me off in the middle of the night? He didn't speak english, but his answer was clear enough so I went.
I tossed the bowline on the front of the boat and quietly floated away. I watched his mystic silhouette come to the waters edge, to drink. I then realized I was sleeping in his territorial watering spot. I went on around the bend to a sprawling beach, where I tied the boat, and went back to sleep. I again woke to the sound of horses hooves in the night. He was running back and forth, and making a bunch of noise in apparent protest, behind where I slept. I told him that this beach was going to have to accommodate us both. Again, he didn't speak English, but his answer was clear enough to allow me a peaceful sleep for the remainder of the night.

Cowboy cashe, unknown season

December 23, 2005

Baja California Sur

In Nov./Dec. Anja and I went to Baja Calif. Sur, traveling with backpacks. We traveled 16 days by bus, and hitchhiking, north to the Sierra de la San Fransisco to check out the 10,000 year old Cochimi rock art, a UNESCO world heritage site, simply referred to by the locals as La Cueva Pintada, (The Cave Painting). The rock art is geographically spread around a bit. The area we traveled to was in the bottom of a canyon called Canon San Pablo near the village of Santa Martha. Stone huts where the people live the way they must've lived 1000 years ago. Herding goats, making their own leather products like shoes and saddles for the few mules the village owns, goat milk, goat cheese, etc. The government authority, INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropologia), strictly controls who enters the canyon. The pristine nature of the sites shows how effective the restriction is! You gotta hire an INAH approved guide to escort you the few days, down a single track, it takes to go there and back. We tried to stop at most of the towns along the 400 miles between Cabo and Sierra de San Fransisco mostly because it sucks to ride the bus for more than 3 or 4 hours at a time, and there's tons to see along the way.

August 18, 2002

Flash Flood


Labyrinth Canyon of the Green River is one of many canyons named by explorer John Wesley Powell. The silence and tranquility must have been ringing in his ears when he named Labyrinth. Tranquility can be part of a river trip through Labyrinth canyon today as much as it ever was when John Wesley Powell traveled through its meandering depths. The silence and tranquility that I have experienced can lead to very relaxing days that can sometimes temporarily conceal the fact that the river and it's canyons are a wild place where sudden change can have disastrous outcome.

April 18, 2002

The First Shift




I was fresh out of Missoula, Montana having just quit my winter seasonal job driving snow-cats at a local ski area to come to Utah and take a job as a seasonal river ranger on Desolation Canyon.

November 17, 2001

Suby Tales

After finishing my season of rangering in Escalante, my future ex-wife Lisa came to Utah for a little exploring. I picked her up at the airport and we went for a long road trip through some really remote areas of Utah in my '83 Subaru. After our trip she returned home to Indiana and I headed to Missoula, Montana to my winter job, and where I had been living for the past several years. Some time during that winter I saw an ad in a local paper that was seeking "suby tales". Apparently they were seeking stories of subaru owners adventures that were a result of their car. I thought I had a perfect scenario to suit the story line so I sent in the submission below.

 

October 1, 2001

100 nights in the Escalante



It's been nine summers since I spent a season as a backcountry ranger in the Escalante. During that season I spent nearly 100 nights camped out in, and between, the wild canyons of the Escalante, mostly by myself.

July 10, 2001

Mt. St. Helens

During my season in Escalante I took a short trip to Montana and Oregon. While in Oregon, and visiting my brother in Vancouver, I thought I'd climb Mt. St. Helens. I was traveling without a car and my brother Brian felt like getting out of town for a little while so we went and checked out the Ape Caves, then went to the small market called Jacks Rest where they were to have the drawing for the next days climbing permits.


May 1, 2001

Pulling into the Current

How I broke away from the so called American Dream and became a Seasonal Park Ranger:

On my 30th birthday I was freshly divorced from wife, mortgage, child, and a job that, I think, was supposed to be an "american dream". I had a '75 chevy pickup truck with a blown motor, a canoe, and a 3'x5' storage unit in Missoula with books and other oddities.